Lodges, food and the rim trail all run
The South Rim is a year round town. The village lodges, El Tovar, Bright Angel, Maswik, Yavapai and Thunderbird and Kachina, operate through winter, the visitor center at Mather Point keeps winter hours, and Mather Campground stays open all year for the hardy. The park's village and Kaibab shuttle routes run in winter on reduced schedules, and Desert View Drive east to the Watchtower is open to private vehicles all year, weather permitting, which makes it the reliable scenic drive on a storm day when Hermit Road is waiting for plows. The Rim Trail, thirteen mostly flat miles along the edge, is the winter walk: icy in shaded patches after storms, deserted between viewpoints, and the canyon light in December is low and golden by mid afternoon. Dress like you mean it and the village half of the park needs no compromises at all. Verdict: nothing about a winter trip is roughing it unless you choose the campground. The park is open; it is the crowds that closed.
The other rim sleeps, and the trails bite at the top
The North Rim is closed for the winter season, its road in from Jacob Lake shut and its services down until spring; after the Dragon Bravo Fire, its longer recovery story is one we track in our North Rim status guide, and winter is simply not its season in any year. Below the South Rim, the corridor trails stay open but change character: the top sections of the Bright Angel and South Kaibab trails hold ice and packed snow for weeks, in shade that never melts between storms. Rangers' standing advice applies double in winter: traction devices for your boots, no hiking below the rim without them, and turnaround times set by the roughly ten hours of December daylight, not by your legs. Winter is a rim season first and a hiking season second. Verdict: come for the rim, the drive and the light. Treat anything below the rim as a bonus that requires spikes, daylight math and humility.
